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Let's get more specific. Choose an option below to get a better grasp as to what you are looking for.
How to install Ball Joints Correctly Improving Classic VW Steering Feel — One Step at a Time
My Ultimate Plan What do the PRO's recommend to Air Ride my Classic VW?
What is a Narrowed Beam and why do I need it? Can I bolt a Link Pin beam on a Ball Joint car or vice versa?
What do I need to Air Ride an early Type 2 VW Bus UN-assembled versus PRObuilt Drop Spindles
Build Based on a Budget Top 5 Components for a Quality Ride
Identifying the condition of your Beetle/Ghia Suspension How to lower your VW Bus the right way
How to lower your VW Beetle/Ghia the right way How to LOWER a VW rear end correctly
VW Axle Indentification
  • How to install Ball Joints Correctly

    The Ins and Outs of Pressing Ball Joints

    In the last 35 years, I have learned that pressing ball joints into control arms is about more than just installation—it’s about achieving a consistent result with an ideal articulation feel. The process requires precision, understanding, and quality control to ensure a long-lasting, high-performing joint.

    Understanding Ball Joint Construction

    A ball joint consists of multiple layers designed to work together seamlessly:

    • Outer Shell: Made of light-duty steel, slightly oversized to create a press fit into the arm.
    • Inner Cup: Typically made from a Delrin-style material, allowing the ball to rotate smoothly.
    • Ball and Stem: The stem attaches to the spindle, while the ball rotates within the cup.
    • Lubrication: Grease is applied between these layers to reduce friction and wear.

    The Proper Pressing Technique

    When pressing in a ball joint, it is critical to use the outer ridge as the leverage point. Pressing by the center risks collapsing the joint internally, leading to excessive stiffness and compromised - Read More.

  • Improving Classic VW Steering Feel — One Step at a Time

    Improving Classic VW Steering Feel — One Step at a Time (1949–1961 King & Link Pin Models)

    This isn’t an ad. It’s a deep dive into your steering system — a hands-on troubleshooting session to uncover what’s working, what’s not, and where expectations might need to be reset.

    Let’s aim to take your current driving feel — maybe a 6 out of 10 — and see if we can incrementally move that to an 8 or even a 9.

    Step-by-Step Steering Audit for 1949–1961 King & Link Pin VW Beetles & Ghias

    Start With a Two-Person Inspection

    One person at the wheel. The other inspecting visually and physically for:

    • Deflection

    • Creep

    • Free play

    • Looseness or wear

    Critical Component Specs & Checks

    • Pitman Arm: Torque to 51 ft-lbs

    • Steering Coupler: Torque to 22 ft-lbs

    • Tie Rod Ends: No play or creep allowed

    • King Pins: Must not rock in any direction

    • Link Pins: Tight, greased, and no slop

    • Wheel Bearings: Tighten until the hub assembly stops moving, then back off 1/4 turn and secure

    • Steering Box Clamp (to beam): Torque to 22 ft-lbs


    Steering Box Centering (Stamped OEM VW Box Only)

    1. Turn the steering wheel left and right.

    2. You should feel a “peak” in the center—like going up and down a mountain.

    3. Adjust the box (loosen/tighten) until this peak is felt.

    4. Back off the adjuster slightly, then:

      • Mark the peak on the input shaft.

      • Center that mark at 12 o'clock.

      • Re-align your steering wheel and adjust tie rods so wheels point forward.


    What If You Have a Non-OEM (Aftermarket) Box?

    Results may vary. Aftermarket tolerances aren’t always consistent with OEM specs.

    • Slowly adjust the steering box screw until it just touches, then add a scoche more.

    • DO NOT overtighten—avoid binding.

    If everything is torqued and aligned, this is likely the best performance you’ll get from a non-OEM setup.


    Want Better Steering Feel?

    Here are curated upgrades from PROs with 20+ years in the game:


    Want a PRO-Audited Bolt-On Solution?

    Check out the PRObuilt Adjustable Beam Complete. It’s been hand-assembled and audited by VW steering pros—bolt it on and go.


    Why Not a 10/10 Experience?

    Think of it like cooking a steak—some like it rare, some well-done. The final 1–2 points on the 10 scale come down to micro-adjustments after the big stuff is right.


    Final Tips for a True Steering Upgrade

    • 4-Wheel Alignment
      Don’t just settle for front-end alignment. Get all four wheels square to each other.

    • Caster Shims?
      If you want better return-to-center or more high-speed stability, caster shims are a low-cost way to test the difference. Try them—you may be surprised.

    Absolutely — here’s the reworked version of your copy for 1962–1965 King & Link Pin VW Beetles & Ghias. It’s been styled to match the tone and structure of the previous version: educational, step-by-step, and focused on helping the reader incrementally improve their steering experience — from a 6/10 to an 8 or 9/10.


    Classic VW Drive Train Logo


    Dialing In Your Classic VW Steering

    1962–1965 Beetle & Ghia (King & Link Pin Models with Steering Damper)

    Let’s not skip straight to the parts catalog. First, we’ll walk through a true steering audit — one that sets realistic expectations, whether your ride feels “OK,” sloppy, or borderline dangerous.

    This guide focuses on the 1962–1965 models — the early link pin cars with the newer-style steering box and now equipped from the factory with a steering damper. The goal here? Take your driving experience from a modest 6/10 to a confident 8 or 9/10 — with the right checks, tweaks, and PRO-worthy upgrades.


    Start With the Basics: The Two-Man Steering Audit

    Get a second set of hands. One person works the steering wheel back and forth while the other visually and physically inspects each component in real time. You're looking for play, flex, creep, or deflection — anything less than tight and responsive.

    Here’s what to check and the proper torque specs to ensure a dialed-in system:

    • Pitman Arm – Torque to 51 ft-lbs

    • Steering Coupler – Torque to 22 ft-lbs

    • Tie Rod Ends – Should exhibit zero play or creep

    • King Pins – Should show no rocking motion

    • Link Pins – Should be tight, play-free, and fully greased

    • Wheel Bearings (roller type) – Tighten until the hub stops moving, then back off ¼ turn and lock it down

    • Steering Box Clamp to Beam – Torque to 22 ft-lbs


    Steering Box: What’s on Your Car?

    🟠 Aftermarket Box (TRW, Chinese, etc.)

    If it’s not stamped with the VW logo, you're dealing with non-OEM tolerances. These boxes are often several tiers below in feel and response — and you’re limited by how well they were manufactured. You can make some improvements, but expectations should stay modest.

    🟢 OEM VW-Stamped Box

    Now we're talking. Look for the collar on the input shaft (where it connects to the coupler). The split in that collar, when aligned from the factory, should point straight up at 12 o'clock when your steering wheel is centered.

    Here’s how to fine-tune it:

    1. Loosen the jam nut on the steering box.

    2. Slowly turn the adjuster in until you feel contact — then give it just a hair more.

    3. Tighten the jam nut.

    4. Reposition your steering wheel on the shaft so it’s straight.

    5. Adjust your tie rods to get the wheels visually aligned.


    What Can Take It Further?

    If you want to elevate the driving feel — to OEM or better — here’s the curated upgrade path:


    Looking for a One-and-Done Bolt-On Solution?

    A full PRObuilt Beam might make sense. It’s built and audited by VW pros with over 20 years of experience — and it eliminates the guesswork.


    Why Not a 10/10 Steering Experience?

    Think of it like ordering a steak — some prefer medium-rare, others well-done, and many fall somewhere in between. Once you’ve done a macro audit and replaced what’s lacking, you’ll be closer than ever to ideal. The final step? Micro-adjustments.


    Final Tweaks That Make a Difference

    🔧 Alignment – A basic front-end alignment helps, but a 4-wheel alignment truly transforms the feel. Square the front wheels to the rear. Match side-to-side camber and toe.

    🧭 Caster Shims – Need better self-centering? Want more high-speed stability? Caster shims might be worth testing. They’re inexpensive and easy to remove if not needed.



    Absolutely — here's the polished, on-brand version of your 1966–1968 Ball Joint steering checklist and upgrade guide, matched to your previous tone:


    1966–1968 Beetle & Ghia (Ball Joint Models with 10mm Tie Rod Ends / 17mm Nuts)

    Aiming to go from 6/10 to 8–9/10 steering feel? Start here.

    Let’s audit the steering system step by step:

    • Pitman Arm: Torque the clamping bolt to 51 ft-lbs.

    • Steering Coupler: Torque the four fasteners to 22 ft-lbs.

    • Tie Rod Ends: Ensure there's no play or creep when rocking the steering wheel.

    • Ball Joints: Watch the boots. Torn? Replace. As the wheel is rocked back and forth, the ball joints should not move vertically.

    • Wheel Bearings (Roller Type): Tighten the spindle nut until the hub no longer moves, then back off 1/4 turn. Lock it down. You’ve just dialed in the ideal thrust setting.

    • Steering Box Clamp to Beam & Box: Torque the clamp fasteners to 22 ft-lbs.


    What Are You Working With?

    If your steering box is TRW, Chinese, or any aftermarket box without a VW stamp, you’re at the mercy of looser tolerances and reduced feel. That’s not opinion — that’s decades of hands-on experience talking.

    If you’re lucky enough to have an original stamped VW steering box, here’s your next move:
    There should be a collar on the input shaft (where the steering coupler attaches). If it’s never been moved, the split in that collar should sit at 12 o'clock when the steering wheel is centered.

    • Loosen the jam nut on the adjuster.

    • Turn the adjuster in until it just contacts, then go very slightly further.

    • Lock the jam nut.

    • Re-center the steering wheel on the shaft.

    • Align your front wheels to be roughly straight ahead.


    What Could Make It Better?

    Here’s a curated list of components that will upgrade your feel, control, and confidence behind the wheel:

    Want something ready to bolt on that’s already been audited and prepped by PROs with over 20 years of experience?


    Why Not a 10/10?

    You can follow every step above, replace every part, and still stop at an 8/9 out of 10. Why?

    Because perfect steering feel is subjective — like steak doneness. Some want more road feedback, others prefer light and easy. This guide gets you as close as possible from a macro view. Now it's time for the micro adjustments.


    Final Touches

    • Get a 4-Wheel Alignment: Forget just the front — square your front wheels to the rears. Match suspension geometry side to side.

    • Caster Shims? Maybe. Maybe not. They’re inexpensive and easy to try. More caster = more straight-line stability, but only if your setup needs it.



    Here’s the refined and formatted version of your 1969–2004 Ball Joint Model Steering Checklist and Upgrade Guide, matching the tone and structure of the previous two:


    1969–2004 Beetle, Ghia & Fridolin (Ball Joint Models with 12mm Tie Rod Ends / 19mm Nuts)

    This is how you elevate the steering feel from stock 6/10 to an 8–9/10 driving experience.

    Let’s break it down:

    • Pitman Arm: Torque clamping bolt to 51 ft-lbs.

    • Steering Coupler: Torque all hardware to 22 ft-lbs.

    • Tie Rod Ends: There should be zero play or creep during steering input.

    • Ball Joints (in Control Arms): Torn boots? Replace. If the joint moves vertically while rocking the wheel, it’s time for service.

    • Wheel Bearings (Roller Type): Tighten the spindle nut until the hub no longer moves, then back off 1/4 turn. Lock it down for optimal thrust setting.

    • Steering Box Clamp to Beam: Torque to 22 ft-lbs.


    Know What You're Working With

    If your steering box is aftermarket (TRW, Chinese, or unbranded), it operates on sub-OEM tolerances. In our experience, they consistently fall short in providing precise feedback and long-term reliability.

    If you're lucky enough to still have a VW-stamped original box, it’s worth optimizing:

    • The input shaft collar (connected to the coupler) should have its split at 12 o’clock when the wheel is centered.

    • Loosen the jam nut.

    • Slowly turn the adjuster screw in until it contacts, then go just a smidge further.

    • Lock the jam nut.

    • Realign the steering wheel on the shaft.

    • Roughly center the front wheels to complete your initial adjustment.


    Want It Better?

    If you’re ready to take it further, here's the proven combo that gets results:

    Looking for a turnkey solution that’s been engineered, built, and audited by PROs with over 20 years of Classic VW steering experience?


    Why Not a 10/10?

    Even with all components replaced, torqued, and adjusted to spec, you’re likely to land at an 8 or 9. Why?

    Steering feedback is subjective, like how people like their steak. Rare, medium, well — it's personal. But with your macro setup dialed in, you're closer than ever. Now it’s time for micro refinements.


    Final Touches That Matter

    • Four-Wheel Alignment: Not just toe-and-go. You want the front wheels squared to the rear, and the suspension matched side to side.

    • Need More Caster? Maybe. Maybe not. Caster shims are inexpensive and reversible. More caster = better straight-line stability, especially at speed.


    This guide brings you closer to the steering feel you didn’t know your VW could have.
    Need help diagnosing or selecting upgrades? We’ve got you.


    Here’s the final section for the Type 181 (Thing), rewritten to match the tone, formatting, and polish of the others:


    Type 181 - Thing (Ball Joint Front End)

    Looking to transform your Thing’s steering feel from a 6/10 to an 8–9/10 experience? Let’s walk through it.

    Here’s the checklist:

    • Pitman Arm: Torque the clamping bolt to 51 ft-lbs.

    • Steering Coupler: Torque hardware to 22 ft-lbs.

    • Tie Rod Ends: Should have no play or creep while turning the wheel.

    • Ball Joints (Control Arms): If the boots are torn or the joint moves vertically when rocking the wheel, it’s time for service.

    • Wheel Bearings (Roller Type): Tighten until the hub stops moving, then back off 1/4 turn. Lock it down for perfect bearing preload.

    • Steering Box Clamp to Beam: Torque to 22 ft-lbs.


    Understand What You’re Working With

    If your steering box is a TRW, Chinese, or other non-VW unit, you’re operating on non-OEM tolerances. These boxes typically deliver an inferior steering experience with noticeable vagueness and premature wear.

    If your box has a VW stamp, you’re in luck. Here’s how to get the most from it:

    • The collar on the input shaft (connected to the coupler) should have its split at the 12 o’clock position with the steering wheel straight.

    • Loosen the jam nut on the top of the steering box.

    • Slowly adjust the screw inward until it contacts, then go just a tiny bit more.

    • Lock down the jam nut.

    • Center the steering wheel on the shaft.

    • Adjust alignment to get the front wheels roughly centered.


    Want to Take it to the Next Level?

    If you're ready to make meaningful improvements to your steering precision and feel, consider upgrading these core components:

    Looking for a fully engineered, bolt-on upgrade that’s been vetted by PROs with 20+ years in the game?


    Why You Might Stop at 8/10 or 9/10

    Even with all the right components and torque specs dialed in, steering feel is subjective. Some prefer it light, others tight. Think of it like how people prefer their steak—rare to well done.

    Once the macro system is dialed in, it’s time for the micro refinements.


    Final Steps for Excellence

    • Four-Wheel Alignment: Critical. Go beyond toe adjustment. Square your front wheels to your rears. Match the suspension side to side. This is where the magic happens.

    • Need More Caster? Maybe. Maybe not. Caster shims are affordable and reversible. If you want a more planted feel at speed, they’re worth testing.


    Ready to make your Thing steer like it was built yesterday?
    Let’s dial it in—one detail at a time.

  • What do the PRO's recommend to Air Ride my Classic VW?

    Complete Listings of Recommended Classic Volkswagen Air Ride Kits by year and model | Airkewld

    Over 20+ years developing Air Ride Kits for the Classic Volkswagen should give you confidence that the product offerings the PRO's provide will do what we say they will. Below you will find recommended kits by year and model. As you click each year, it will add the recommended kits to your cart for the perfect air ride kit for you. If it doesn't, we don't offer one. - by Pete Skiba - PRO since 2002 | Airkewld.com | Updated on 11/29/24

    Type 1 Standard Beetle - 1949 | 1950 | 1951 | 1952 | 1953 | 1954 | 1955 | 1956 | 1957 | 1958 | 1959 | 1960 | 1961 | 1962 | 1963 | 1964 | 1965 | 1966 | 1967 | 1968 | 1969 | 1970 | 1971 | 1972 | 1973 | 1974 | 1975 | 1976 | 1977

    Karmann Ghia - 1957 | 1958 | 1959 | 1960 | 1961 | 1962 | 1963 | 1964 | 1965 | 1966 | 1967 | 1968 | 1969 | 1970 | 1971 | 1972 | 1973 | 1974

    Type 181 Thing - 1973 | 1974

    Type 2 Split Bus - 1955 | 1956 | 1957 | 1958 | 1959 | 1960 | 1961 | 1962 | 1963 | 1964 | 1965 | 1966 | 1967

    Type 2 Brazilian Bus - 1968 | 1969 | 1970 | 1971 | 1972 | 1973 | 1974 | 1975

    Related: Complete Air Ride Kit install guides | Complete Build of a 1962 Chassis on Air Ride | The Oldest Karmann Ghia on Air Ride from Airkewld


  • What is a Narrowed Beam and why do I need it?

    The Classic Volkswagen front suspension consists of a beam assembly that houses internal torsion slats that give the vehicle its suspension. Under a stock format, this works great for an original vehicle. It would have a classic look and a nostalgic feel. But that is the limit.

    A standard upgrade to a Classic Volkswagen would be a disc brake upgrade. I get it; you get it; we all get it. We want to be safer....and we should. But to create that safety, the caliper and rotor combo need to grow in size to accomplish the feat of slowing a vehicle that wants to go faster than it really should. This upgrade adds width to the vehicle's track, making the drive-train under the vehicle wider. Depending on the vendor you use and the bolt pattern or lug pattern you use, you can change the width that can and will increase the width of your front suspension. Anywhere from zero to 1 1/2 inches or 38mm of track increase can be had with the upgrade.

    Another standard upgrade is the addition of a dropped spindle. All drop spindles for the Beetle and Ghia add 3/4" (19mm) in total track or 3/8" (9.5mm) on each side.

    More and more enthusiasts are also
  • Can I bolt a Link Pin beam on a Ball Joint car or vice versa?


    Question : Can I bolt a Link Pin beam on a Ball Joint car or vice versa?

    Quick answer, No
    . The spread between the upper tube and the lower tubes are different so the beam can not nest from one type to the other.

    The only way to do it right, should you have a reason you want to swap it would be to change out the who front half of the chassis head, also known as the Napoleon Hat Frame Head. Welding and experience is required and I would rank this modification as high as it can go, 10 out of 10. Iffy and maybe will not cut it with this modification.

  • What do I need to Air Ride an early Type 2 VW Bus


    This article was created to give you, the #AirkewldArmy, the information needed to make a GREAT decision for YOU and YOUR Classic Volkswagen build. Let's get into the details of this question.

    I want to Air Ride my Classic Type 2 Volkswagen. What products and or kits do I need to do the job?

    BASICS
    What year & model of Classic Type 2 Volkswagen do these fit?
    1955-1967 Type 2 Bus, Standard Kombi, Single Cab, Double Cab, Panel, Deluxe, all models.

    Will this kit fit on narrowed beam?
    No, it must be an OEM beam.

    Will this kit fit with a stock reduction gear box (RGB) transaxle?

  • UN-assembled versus PRObuilt Drop Spindles


    This article was created to give you, the #AirkewldArmy, the information needed to make a GREAT decision for YOU and YOUR Classic Volkswagen build. Let's get into the details of this question.

    UN-assembled versus PRObuilt Drop Spindles

    UN-assembled drop spindles - Link
    PRObuilt Drop Spindles - Link

    BASICS

    What year & model of Classic Volkswagen do these fit?
    1949-1965 Beetle & Karmann Ghia

    Do these also fit the Porsche 356 A & B?
    They do indeed. Some models require a new inner wheel bearing and seal.

  • Build Based on a Budget


    Budget-Based Build for the Classic VW Chassis

    The PRO’s have developed a new system that allows you to build your desired Classic Volkswagen based on your investment budget. Transparency is essential in this process, enabling a focus on the amount you wish to invest in the project, rather than what we might do if we were in your position.

    **Suspension Options**

    - **$500**:Install adjusters, update front shocks, readjust rear torsion bars, and replace rear shocks. Perform a four-wheel alignment and make micro-adjustments.

    - **$1,000**: Install adjusters, drop spindles, new ball joints/link pins/king pins, update front shocks, readjust rear torsion bars, and replace rear shocks. Perform a four-wheel alignment and make micro-adjustments.

    - **$2,000**: Install an adjustable beam and shocks on all four corners, readjust rear torsion bars, and perform a four-wheel alignment with micro-adjustments....
  • Top 5 Components for a Quality Ride


    What Are The TOP 5 Things That Contribute To A Quality Riding VW Front Suspension?


    I read yesterday that quality is subjective. The PRO's opinion of quality is X and your opinion of quality is Y. We all think differently, something one of my best friends in life made me aware of awhile ago.

    The PRO's have come up with a baseline of 5 components that contribute to a quality riding front suspension. Quality is the key word because most of us that have been in the industry awhile understand that what we did in the past, wasn't necessarily quality, but it got the job done in an aesthetic way.

    Let's begin.

    1. Shocks - Who would have thought that shocks have something to do with a quality of ride. But it is PARAMOUNT! Just because a shock comes in a collapsed length or extended length to fit the application, does not mean it is the right shock for the job. This has been the main reason...
  • Identifying the condition of your Beetle/Ghia Suspension

    Let’s take the necessary steps to ensure the base you are working with is solid and straight.

    • Check the tire pressure in all your tires to ensure there is 22 psi in them.
    • Make sure you have matching tire sizes on the front and matching in the rear.
    • Make sure you are on a level flat surface. Measure from the ground to the upper arch of each fender and write those measurements down.
    • Measure the distance from your tire or wheel to the outer portion of your fender edge.
    • Measure the gap, the distance from the top of your tire up to the fender edge.

    On an original Beetle, the distance from the fender edge to the top of a 165r15 tire would be about 7”. If the measurement you have is less than that, the vehicle has relaxed, lost tension in the front torsion bars or it has been altered in some fashion.

    If you jack up your VW by the front axle beam, you will notice the body moving up and the wheels are staying put. As you continue jacking it up, the gap between the tire and the fender will grow. Once you see the tires almost come off the ground….. that is just about stock height. From the factory, in our interpretation, when “loading the suspension”, the car will drop about 1.5” or 38mm. If you notice the vehicle dipping more than that, the vehicle is lowered the additional amount you measured.

  • How to lower your VW Bus the right way

    We all dream of having a type 2 VW bus. Whether it is one with all the windows or a camper the wife and the kids strapped in and cruising down the road. Sounds good right? You would think. I did some asking around and came up with some pretty surprising information. Most people listen to companies and friends on what they think they should do with their bus and fork down the cash to make that happen. After they are done it ends up in the classifieds. Why? Most people look at things as a cosmetic and how cool it looks when you step out of the vehicle and turn to take a peak. Although it looks cool the outcome is not what the owner wanted. The type 2 bus rode terrible and the wife did not want to cruise it anymore. Because of certain products that were installed on the bus, the beers in the ice chest got all shook up on the drive to the beach. You see where this is going right? There are two variations of a lowered bus.
    • Daily Driver Status
    • Slammed
    Daily Driver Status (DDS) This is the most common of the variations. 3.5" dropped spindles up front and either a straight axle conversion or an IRS conversion in the rear which drops the rear end about 4". Update your wheels and tires to get better drivability/looks and there you have it. Install some new shocks that are not KYB's and you're done. The ride is like stock because you really did not change anything that had to do with your torsions (in theory). Why is this most common?

  • How to lower your VW Beetle/Ghia the right way


    So you probably just finished reading our article on "Identifying the condition of your Beetle/Ghia suspension" If not, check it out here. You have determined that you want to lower your Beetle/Ghia. Let's review some products we provide to get you lowered correctly. We must identify if you are building a cruiser or a performer.
    Cruiser - Small engine application, not built for speed, low and slow baby.
    Performer - Larger engine application, built for performance, nice and tight, power to the ground.

    Front Suspension

    * PRObuilt Adjusters - Drop you anywhere your shocks and tires will allow for. By themselves, no more than 4" drop to obtain an optimal ride. Welders are needed to install these.
    * Lowered Shocks - These shocks do not drop the vehicle. They give you the ride quality you are after. Bolt-on.
    * Ultimate Narrowed and Adjustable Axle Beam - Built-in adjusters in the beam give you 7.5" of adjustability. Available in various narrowed widths to allow larger wheels, disc brakes, or track adders. Bolt-on.
    * Drop Spindles - Drop you 2.5" from where you are currently.

  • How to LOWER a VW rear end correctly


    We are going to be writing a HUGE update to this article shortly.


    To be accurate, it is a 1960 chassis with a 1968 transmission, 1962 spring plates and type-3 drum brakes, but far as i know all the 60's bugs are very much the same as far as this is concerned. The wheel of a swing axle doesn't travel anywhere near straight up and down, but rather travels in an arc. Therefore actual ride height measurements are difficult, and also they change with the size and offset of the tire. SO, I found it is easiest to just measure the travel and ride height in degrees of camber. The angle can be measured at the axle tube or the brake drum or the wheel, they are all connected together so it doesn't matter. Zero degrees camber or perhaps up to 2 positive camber is usually considered the "stock" ride height. With the torsion bar removed, but all else assembled, I measured the travel.

    Extended: 8 degrees down
    shock length 16.5"
    When rubber bump stop comes into action: 5 deg up

    When the spring plate hits the hard stop:9 degrees up
    shock length 10.5"

    I have always wondered how much the UP travel can be increased. So, I then put on these "complimentary" special spring plates that go around the hard bump stop. This is all the way up, note the "hard stop" is still nowhere near hitting the spring plate.

    This allowed it to travel up another 2 degrees, however it seems that this is all the travel the transmission allows, at this point the internal joint runs out of travel. I jacked it up a bit more but the engine started twisting.

  • VW Axle Indentification


    Information. Data. Assumption. Ordering twice.

    This video is full of information that make understanding what your VW has as far as axles in the rear. Why does this matter? You need to know this information. If you don’t, your wheels you just ordered won’t fit. Your brand new tires will rub. Your disc brake kit you just ordered will need to be returned. You will need to educate yourself before investing money in your VW build.

    Today, we talk about axle lengths. What was stock on US Spec Type 1 Beetles, the lengths etc.

    1949-65 Beetle normally has short axle, short spline configurations.
    1966-67 Beetle normally has long axle, short spline configurations.
    1968 Beetle normally has long axle, long spline configurations.

    Short Axle, Short Spline configurations has a total axle length of ( 26 5/8 Inches) and the spline length is ( 2 Inches)( 53 mm).
    Long Axle, Short Spline configurations has a total axle length of ( 27 7/8 Inches) and the spline length is ( 2 Inches)( 53 mm).
    Long Axle, Long Spline configurations has a total axle length of ( 28 3/8 Inches) and the spline length is ( 2 5/8 Inches)( 68 mm).

    Short Axle bearing housings have a total length of ( 3 7/16 Inches)( 87 mm).
    Long Axle bearing housing have a total length of ( 4 5/8 Inches)( 117 mm).

    Being able to measure these items, will identify what you have and will educate yourself on what brake kits you need to purchase, what wheels will fit...