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Please read the entire install article before installing these brakes. We recommend having them checked out by a certified mechanic to ensure safety.
What to know.
These brakes require 15" and larger non Bus wheels to work properly. Some wheels requires certain studs so make sure you order the correct type for your wheels. We recommend DOT 3 Brake fluid. We recommend the Disc Master Cylinder in any disc brake install. It will help with proper pedal release proportioning and pedal feel. Don't burn up your rotors and pads by skipping out on this. If you do not purchase this at the same time as your disc brake kit the lifetime warranty on the rotors is voided. You will need to bed the pads in before driving on them normally. Follow the break in article that is supplied with your brake pads to ensure proper pad and rotor wear.
You get done installing your brand new disc brake kit bleed it out and the pedal is just not there. Pump it up a few times and gets harder and harder. Guess what? It still has air in the system. Here are some things to check when you have a spongy pedal with disc brakes.
- Make sure the bus is in gear and the e-brake is on. Depending on the tools that are available the vehicle will not fall on you.
- Remove the original dust caps of the drums. Do not discard you will be using these again.
- Remove the spindle nut thrust washer and outer bearings. Do not discard the thrust washer and spindles nuts you will be using them again.
- Remove the drums. If they are hard to remove try and adjust the adjuster stars to loosen the shoe grip on the drum.
- Once the drums are remove you will need to remove the backing plate by taking out the four bolts attaching it to the spindle along with the removal of the factory brake line from the wheel cylinder. Quick tip remove the bleeder first so you do not break it of. *If your hoses have not been changed in a while Airkewld's steel braided replacement lines would be a nice touch and give you piece of mind.
- You will need to remove the original seal race from the spindle and replace it with the new one supplied in the kit. A drift bearing separator will make quick work of this. Once the old one is removed make sure there are not any burrs on the spindle shaft and tap on the new seal race.
- Clean the spindles and the mating surfaces. If you have a metric thread chaser now is the time to chase all the threads to ensure a clean snag free installation. After they are clean mask off the spindle shafts and spray some rust preventative paint. This will ensure a lifetime of good looks and no rust.
- With the supplied hardware place the caliper bracket on the spindle with the caliper ear facing the rear of the bus and the countersunk holes are facing towards you. If you have blue lock tite apply a small amount on the thread and install the FHCS (flat head cap screws). 20ft lbs is the torque setting
- Now it is time to work on the BAD Series rotors. You will need to either press in or tap in the bearing races into the aluminum hub. Make sure you install them in evenly. If you see any shavings installing them tap the races out and re install. The debris will cause rotor wobble if it is not clean. Harbor Freight carries a cheap kit that works well or Sears carries a nice one. If you are tapping them in you will notice a solid """"thud"""" when they are seated in properly.
- Next you will need to pack your wheel bearings. If you did not purchase the optional bearings clean and inspect your bearings. If they are in good condition follow the next step. If they are not give us a call and we can ship some out for you. Once the bearings are greased place the inners into the hubs and try not to get grease on the aluminum part of the hub. If you do clean it off before trying to tap the grease seal in. The grease seal goes in dry no lubricant. If you don't the grease seal will pop out.
- Before sliding the rotor onto the spindle shaft take some axle grease and lube the seal and the new seal race you installed on the spindle. Then slide the rotor on install the outer bearing thrust washer and spindle nut. To set the thrust you will need to tighten the nut until the rotor stops turning and back it off 1/4 turn. Then install the lock tab second spindle nut and bend the tabs over.
- Clean paint and install your factory dust caps and install your speedo cable.
- Onto the calipers you will need to install the pads into the caliper per the instructions in each pad box. Usually this consists of pulling a cotter pin and sliding the pads in. Once they are installed slide the calipers over the rotor and start the two supplied SHCS (socket head cap screws). Do not tighten. Center the caliper onto the rotor blade. With the supplied spacers in different thicknesses estimate how many will take up the gap between the caliper and the bracket. Loosen each bolt one at a time and place the spacers on and leave loose until both sides are done. Then tighten. Once tight make sure that the gap on each side is the same or change the thickness of the spacer to achieve equality. When you are happy apply a small amount of blue lock tite to the SHCS threads and tighten down to 20ft lbs.
- There is a sticker directly on the back of the caliper where the brake hoses will be installed. Peel the sticker and install the supplied brass fitting adapter. *If you purchased the optional hoses at the same time the actual hose comes with the correct fitting on it to eliminate the brass fitting adapter. Apply a small amount of pipe dope or thread tap when installing.
- When bleeding disc brakes it is the complete opposite of what you know with drum brakes. You need to bleed the RF LF RR and then the LR. If you want to make the job as easy as possible the optional Solo-Bleeder allow for mess free bleeding in a one man operation. If you want the best possible braking power with disc brakes up front and drum brakes in the rear you will need to adjust your rear brakes....properly.
- When adjusting your brake shoes common practice is to spin the stars adjusting the shoes until they touch the drum and stop the drum from turning then back off. Incorrect. After you adjust the shoes so that they touch the drum go inside the vehicle and pump up the brakes 3-5 times. You will notice that the drum will turn again. Adjust them tighter until the drum does not move again. Then pump them up again. Repeat these step until the drum does not move after pumping them up. Then back them off so that the drum will turn and not drag.Doing this process will center the shoe in the drum and allow the shoe to wear evenly. After doing these steps to correctly adjust your brake shoes make sure to adjust your e-brake cable as well.
- Make sure your bleeders are on top of the brake lines. Air rises to the top and can not be bled out the bottom
- On rear calipers the e-brake cables need to be on top which allows the bleeder to be on top as well.
- Loose connections with your new stainless brake hoses
With single piston Wilwood calipers there are three possible locations for your bleeder to reside. Make sure once they are installed the bleeders are on top. Ghia calipers Wilwood 2 piston and Wilwood 4 piston calipers have multiple bleeders. You only need to bleed the top ones.