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Type 2 Bus Front Disc Brake Kit Install
Last Updated: 09/12/2013

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Once you have removed the drums now is the time to chase all the threads to ensure a clean snag free installation. After it is clean mask off the spindles shaft and spray some rust preventative paint. This will ensure a lifetime of good looks and no rust.With the supplied hardware place the caliper bracket on the spindle with the caliper ear facing the rear of the bus and the countersunk holes are facing towards you. If you have blue lock tite apply a small amount on the thread and install the FHCS (flat head cap screws). 20ft lbs is the torque setting Now it is time to work on the BAD Series rotors. You will need to either press in or tap in the bearing races into the aluminum hub. Make sure you install them in evenly. If you see any shavings installing them tap the races out and re install. The debris will cause rotor wobble if it is not clean. Harbor Freight carries a cheap kit that works well or Sears carries a nice one. If you are tapping them in you will notice a solid "thud" when they are seated in properly.Next you will need to pack the wheel bearings. Once the bearings are greased place the inners into the hubs and try not to get grease on the aluminum part of the hub. If you do clean it off before trying to tap the grease seal in. If you don't the grease seal will pop out. Before sliding the rotor onto the spindle shaft take some axle grease and lube the seal.

On 1955-1963 model type 2's you will need to remove the original seal race on the spindles before you can place the supplied smaller seal race and the rotor on. This can be done with a small tap and tap hammer. Then slide the rotor on install the outer bearing thrust washer and spindle nut. To set the thrust you will need to tighten the nut until the rotor stops turning and back it off 1/4 turn. Then install the lock tab second spindle nut and bend the tabs over. Onto the calipers you will need to install the pads into the caliper per the instructions in each pad box. Usually this consists of pulling a cotter pin and sliding the pads in.Once they are installed slide the calipers over the rotor and start the two supplied SHCS (socket head cap screws). Do not tighten. Center the caliper onto the rotor blade. With the supplied spacers in different thicknesses estimate how many will take up the gap between the caliper and the bracket. Loosen each bolt one at a time and place the spacers on and leave loose until both sides are done. Then tighten. Once tight make sure that the gap on each side is the same or change the thickness of the spacer to achieve equality. When you are happy apply a small amount of blue lock tite to the SHCS threads and tighten down to 20ft lbs. There is a sticker directly in the back of the caliper where the brake hoses will be installed. Peel the sticker and install the supplied brass fitting adapter. Apply a small amount of pipe dope or thread tap when installing. If you purchased stainless steel brake lines from us you can just apply the tape. Install the dust caps and the speedo cable and the BAD Series brakes are installed. Some wheels requires certain studs so make sure you order the correct type for your wheels. We recommend DOT 3 Brake fluid. If you did purchase the master cylinder kit click the link for the tutorial at the bottom of this article.

If you have purchased the Solo Brake Bleeders you can bleed your brakes by yourself. On each caliper remove the upper outer bleeder and replace it with the supplied Solo Bleeder. Fill your reservoir up to the top and tighten the cap. Start with the right front bleeder and crack it open a 1/4 turn. Go inside the vehicle and pump it up until the pedal gets hard. Let off the pedal and go tighten. Break loose the left side bleeder and pump it up again and repeat. For the rear brakes you will need help so call the wife the kid or the mailman to help. You want to stop today! You will need to bed the pads in before driving on them normally. Follow the break in article below to bed your brakes in correctly. If you have any questions or comments please let us know below.

Articles/Links
Harbor Freight
Sears

Hardware Explained

Wheel Bearings

Reservoir Install


Tips You get done installing your brand new disc brake kit bleed it out and the pedal is just not there. Pump it up a few times and gets harder and harder. Guess what? It still has air in the system. Here are some things to check when you have a spongy pedal with disc brakes.
  • Make sure your bleeders are on top of the brake lines. Air rises to the top and can not be bled out the bottom
  • On rear calipers the e-brake cables need to be on top which allows the bleeder to be on top as well.
  • Loose connections with your new stainless brake hoses
With single piston Wilwood calipers there are three possible locations for your bleeder to reside. Make sure once they are installed the bleeders are on top. Ghia calipers Wilwood 2 piston and Wilwood 4 piston calipers have multiple bleeders. You only need to bleed the top ones.


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